2021 Régnié Montmerond, Antoine Sunier

This is the third vintage of Montmerond we’ve bought and we’ve adored all three – testament to the pedigree of the eponymous single vineyard. Just a foot of soil separates the old vines here from the granite mother rock. The ’21 is a little introverted at present but shows incredible potential. Mineral and already complex on the nose, with dried fruit, tar and potpourri aromas. Not austere, but it is undeniably – winningly – tense and linear en bouche. Tuck into the “regular” Régnié and Morgon while this comes round.