2020 Pre-phylloxera Barbera, Elvio Cogno

Not only one of the best-loved wines of Cogno’s range, but one of the most impressive Barbera’s made today. This hails from a tiny (0.25-hectare) parcel rented in Berri in La Morra. Planted over a century ago, the vines here have never been grafted from their original Vinifera rootstocks – the sandy/chalk soil, inhospitable to the dreaded Phylloxera bug, offers natural protection. What makes this parcel more remarkable is its altitude of 520 metres. Raised for a year in cask, the 2020 is high-toned and ethereal on the nose, with bright cherry aromas and flecks of pepper. Intensely concentrated yet harmonious on the palate, it has all the ingredients to improve over the coming decade – especially from magnum.