2019 Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiona

This is jaw-droppingly seductive on the nose, with a myriad of aromas – cut flowers, blood orange, savoury spice, iron – running a gamut from bright to brooding. Forget writing a note on first tasting: it demands your full attention, but does so with effortless charm. Regal. 2019’s near-perfect growing season is expressed in the poise and balance of the palate. There’s tremendous power and potential here, with a huge weight of fruit supported by tannins sculpted like Michelangelo’s David. Already the oak is seamlessly integrated. That famous gallestro (limestone) soil really makes its presence felt towards the finish, which is tapered, delicately saline and immensely long. Gosh, the 2019 Brunello from Cerbaiona is so harmonious, so complete and so inviting even now, but it promises an absolutely un-for-gett-able drinking experience in a decade’s time, and perhaps better still in two decades.