2011 Vin Santo, Montegrossi

This is a wine whose kaleidoscopic complexity renders tasting notes redundant. Made from 100% Malvasia grapes, air-dried in a loft above the winery so botrytis occurs, it was aged for seven years in 50 and 100 litre barrels of cherry, oak and mulberry. The 2011 boasts a whopping 350g of residual sugar, yet the attack is savoury and intensely refreshing. The label carries Marco’s ‘no cantuccini’ label; he recommends instead pairing it with aged hard cheese. Unforgettable.