Domaine de Courcel
The ridiculously hard-working Yves Confuron (of Confuron-Cotetidot fame in Vosne) has been running this top Pommard estate for almost twenty years now. His brother makes the wines at the resurgent Chanson, the Beaune operation headed up by Gilles de Courcel, whose family owns this domaine. The domaine is one of the largest holders of Pommard 1ers Crus, and includes a huge five hectares of the excellent Grand Clos des Epenots, as well as a hectare of the perhaps soon to be Grand Cru. Les Rugiens. The estate is blessed with a plethora of old vines, which contribute to the low yields across the board. The tight pruning and green harvesting also reduce yields so the last few vintages where nature has decimated the harvests have meant there has been even less wine than usual. Yves likes to pick late to ensure maximum ripeness, no bad thing in an appellation where phenolic ripeness is key. The grapes undergo a cold soak before a low temperature fermentation. New oak is kept at between 25 and 40% for the 1ers Cru and the wines are bottled after about eighteen months in cask. The wines are not racked except before the assemblage and the cellars are cold so tasting in the chilly winter months from barrel can be a challenging task. However, Yves is not looking to make wines that flatter in youth for the sake of the professional taster. He is more interested in producing wines that evolve at their own pace and grow up to reflect the complexity of the terroir from which they came. These are quite powerful wines but not overdone. With age they can be quite sumptuous.
Winemaker: Yves Confuron
Pommard premier cru, Le Grand Clos des Epenots, Les Rugiens, Les Frémiers, Les Croix Noires, Les Vaumuriens, Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Chardonnay, Les Vaumuriens, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Bourgogne Chardonnay
About as expensive as a generic wine could be but then it is about as good a one as you are likely to taste. It’s dense, dark and earthy yet the fruit aromatics are fresh and appealing. Needs time but will be excellent. Drink from now.
Awaiting Tasting Note
The biggest holding of the domaine by some way which is the main reason there is actually some stock to sell. There is plenty of ripeness and good depth and intensity. Will take some time to re-emerge from its slumber. Drink from 2020.
Unsurprisingly this is less well known than some 1ers Crus in this appellation as it is only about a hectare in size, more than half of which is owned by de Courcel. This has dark fruit flavours, black cherry and spice. Good tannins here and very nicely out together. Drink from 2017.
Unsurprisingly this is less well known than some 1ers Crus in this appellation as it is only about a hectare in size, more than half of which is owned by de Courcel. This has dark, imposing fruit flavours, black cherry and spice. Good tannins here and very nicely out together. Drink from 2019.
The vines here are also sixty years old but the wine is quite different. Perfectly located mid-slope, Rugiens is the best vineyard in Pommard and, although tighter in youth than the Epenots, this has more culture and stuffing combined which makes for potentially a very serious wine. Drink from 2018.
This is perhaps the best plot of village wine in Pommard, sitting just next to the mighty Les Rugiens. The fruit is dark and compact with plenty of black, spicy fruit, though it doesn`t succumb to heaviness. A 1er Cru perhaps, in all but name. Drink from 2018.