2016 Pouilly-Fuissé `Sur La Roche`
This vineyard is slightly higher up, facing south-east on the famous hill of Vergisson with a much more limestone soil. It`s incredibly racy and mineral with a real sense of chalk and precision. Long, driven, and well defined, it is very classy.
`(13.2% alcohol; Morat noted that one of his two parcels is above 400 meters and thus may be excluded when Sûr La Roche is elevated to premier cru status): Bright yellow with a green tinge. Very complex, brisk aromas of grapefruit, lemon zest, stone, honey and wild herbs. Delivers lovely lift in the mouth thanks to its saline minerality, but this is still a baby. A step up in tension and tautness from the preceding `16s, this classic lemony, mineral-driven Pouilly-Fuissé finishes with excellent rising length and a musky suggestion of wet stone. A dense wine with a terrific citrus core and the energy and structure to age. The crop level for this wine was a solid 55 hectoliters per hectare, noted Morat, adding that there are barely 30 centimeters of soil here over hard white calcaire.` 91+ points, Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com
`Reticent melon nose with a whiff of woodsmoke. It’s rich and broad, with weight and flesh, and it’s just on the right side of heaviness thanks to its concentration and mineral bite. Perky and persistent, this should go the distance. Morat is a rising star, and Sur la Roche is consistently fine. This is mineral, structured and seductive, and has great cellaring potential. A dazzling successor to 2014.` 95 points, Stephen Brook, Decanter, June 2018.
`Sweet, honeyed stone fruit aromas with a waxy elegance. It’s very tense and poised on the palate, with a linear focus to the citrus and bright apricot fruit, combining well with a gentle infusion of fresh, peppery vanilla spice. There’s a gentle candied sweetness which adds depth, and the fruit remains fresh and bright to the finish, the vervy acidity promising an ageworthy wine.` 95 points, Emma Dawson MW, Decanter, June 2018
`Ripe, savoury melon, grilled nuts and toasted oak scents, with notes of vanilla, orange and stony earth. It has ripe stone fruit flavours on the palate, with a blood orange core. Weighted and balanced, it shows great energy, savoury movement and fine, saline persistence. Grown on shallow soils of Vergisson’s southeast slopes. Tactile, ripe, savoury, nutty and smoky with great energy, this conveys fine saline persistence.` 96 points, Matt Wilkin MS, Decanter, June 2018