Pouilly-Fuissé: A Radically Transformed Region for White Burgundy
120km south of Dijon is the wine region of the Mâconnais. It is a source of simple, good value wines but, close to the Beaujolais border, there is an enclave of quality white wine producing villages. The most esteemed appellation is Pouilly-Fuissé which produces whites from Chardonnay on limestone hills, rich in alkaline clay. The AOC dates back to 1965 and within the appellation there are four communes. Vergisson, Fuissé, Chaintré and Solutré-Pouilly. The richest wines generally come from Fuissé and Solutré.Vergisson is a source of lighter, elegant wines with more minerality and its reputation has increased significantly in recent years. No premier or grand cru classifications exist here or anywhere else in the Mâconnais. However, there are many different climats (lieu-dits) - about 100 are now recognised - and there is talk of classifying individual vineyard sites. Soils are similar to those of the Côte de Beaune, a mixture of clay/limestone mixed with scree and schist from further up the slopes. In recent years, a new generation of growers have emerged, making excellent wines from low yields that are complex and sophisticated.
Critics, too, are recognising the excellence coming from the emerging generation. Stephen Tanzer of Vinous Media heaps praise on these young winemakers for the leap in quality which has "radically transformed [the region] in recent decades. And the best is yet to come."
Don't miss out on our selection of three of the most dynamic and expressive Pouilly-Fuissé producers from this years en primeur release. Stocks are limited on some of these wines, so we recommend sending us your order quickly.
Gilles Morat, based in Vergisson, has been crafting lovely Pouilly-Fuissés with his wife Joëlle since taking over the family vineyard in 1997. These are incredibly consistent wines of real quality and purity that exemplify the dramatic evolution of this part of Burgundy over the past decade or so.
Domaine du Roc des Boutires is the newest labour of love for Édouard Parinet of Château du Moulin-à-Vent. The domaine totals a mere 4.2 hectares, in the central part of the appellation that shares the same sub stratum as the best sites in the Côte d’Or, and if these first two vintages (2016 and 2017) are anything to go by, we can expect great things from this domaine.
Bret Brothers is a new addition to our portfolio, and we couldn't be happier to have the dynamic energy of Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume on board. Together, they have transformed their family business from selling off their fruit to producing their own wines, as well as launching under the Bret Brothers name, with the aim of having access to organic vineyards that they could manage and harvest and bottle under this separate négoce label.
2017 Pouilly-Fuissé 'Aux Vignes Dessus'
Domaine Gilles Morat
Buy Now £180 per 12 in bond
£15 per bottle in bond
"More clay here. Fermented in barrrel and aged 10 months therein (12% new). Ripe citrus and spice on the nose and a creamy impression. On the palate, creamy, almost sweet fruited though it is technically dry. Gentle but long. The freshness in that spicy character."
16.5 points, Julia Harding, Jancis Robinson Purple Pages
"New Oak: 10 % This parcel, which has a clay dominated soil, has produced the most powerful of the Fuissés in the range with broad shoulders and plenty of stuffing."
Jason Haynes, Director & Burgundy Buyer
2017 Pouilly-Fuissé 'Aux Bouthières'
Domaine du Roc de Boutires
£132 per 6 in bond
£22 per bottle in bond
“This is the Pouilly outpost of the Parinet family of Château du Moulin-à-Vent. According to Édouard Parinet, this site will be recognised as a premier cru this year. Deep clay soils, no limestone. Bottled December 2018. A little more creamy/mealy than the En Bertilionne, a little less spice in the aroma. Fuller in the mouth, more power and intensity to the fruit but no loss of freshness. This is very classy Pouilly-Fuissé with a long finish and good ageing potential even though it's delicious – if young – now. Good Value."
17 points Julia Harding, Jancis Robinson Purple Pages
"New Oak: 10 %. A 50/50 split here between oak and steel. This is the liveliest of the three, showing perhaps less fat but more vibrancy. Savoury, salty, smoky, complex and very mouth-watering."
Jason Haynes, Director & Burgundy Buyer
“This delicious Pouilly-Fuissé hails from a west-facing plot of old vines in the 'chevrière' climat. The iron oxide-rich soil lends weight and a delicate minerality to the palate and a generous, persistent finish. This is a beautiful expression of the climat and while it’ll give pleasure in the short term, it will reward 5 years cellaring."
Tom Bird, Head of Private Clients
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