Echezeaux and Puligny-Montrachet Dinner
The latest Stannary Street Wine Co. Dinner Club theme was Echezeaux and Puligny-Montrachet. Last evening saw the Wine of the Night actually being a wine not even on the menu! One of our guest kindly bought the first of two mystery wines enjoyed as part of the apertif and once everyone had tried to work out what they were enjoying it was revealed to be a 1995 Meursault Les Tessons from Domaine Roulot which went unsurpassed as the evening progressed. It was lean, stony and mineral and showing only limited evolution. More Puligny than Meursault in its weight but serious and impressive. A 2000 Puligny Combettes from Sauzet followed which was richer and fuller and very much as its peak. With the hard work of blind tasting done we enjoyed a really great glass of fizz from Bouchard.
And so 'a table'. The first flight, all white, served with some truly beautiful sea bass, proved to be the best flight of the evening, with each wine really delivering. The Coche was impressive, especially for what is officially at least only a village wine, the Leflaive was extravagant and delicious, the Boillot Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet won lots of fans, though whether it had much more to come it was difficult to say whilst the first bottle of the Gagnard was terrific and just as it should be. The second bottle was sadly more mature and less focussed.
We then moved to reds and had 3 flights of 3 Echezeaux (including 2 Grands Echezeaux). Slightly disappointingly, none of the reds really wowed us, though there some that were very enjoyable. Sadly, the 2002 from Dujac was corked which was a great shame because the gold medal was very much within its grasp. The 2008s were still too young, the 07 was perhaps too Pinot and not Burgundian enough, though it was very attractive. The 1990 was unevolved but lacking some charm and the 1997 performed well and was drinking nicely. The 04 version of the same wine was pretty and less 04 than many examples of this vintage. The final two wines didn't manage to turn round the underwhelming feeling towards the Echezeaux appellation that had evolved during the course of the evening. The Eugenie, their first vintage after taking over the Engel estate, was okay but not thrilling (very recent vintages are much more exciting) and the 05 from Prieur was inpenetrable.
Perhaps we were just unlucky on the night and with a few other growers or other vintages we'd have had a much more positive reaction to Echezeaux. On the plus side the whites really delivered and as always, the talented Francis Percival cooked up a storm in a the kitchen.