Stannary Dinner Club: Piedmont
The latest Stannary dinner took the white truffle season as an excuse to look at the wines of Piedmont, and the evening threw up a greater array of styles than any previous evening.
Age is the obvious starting point, with vintages ranging from 1958 to 2011, but even amongst the 2004 to 2011 window, wines were at hugely differing drinking stages. The backward wines of 2004 Cascina Francia, 2005 Canbubi Boschis and 2007 Bartolo Mascarello could not have been more contrasting with the aproachability of the 2011 Monprivato and the 2009 Cappellano. The unforgiving tannins of classic Barolo were side by side with sumptuous fruit, prettiness and delicacy in other wines.
Wine making styles have much to do with this, and although the distinction of modern vs traditionalist has been largely blurred, it did feel as if different wine makers were aiming at very different drinking windows. This isn't meant as a qualitive comment, because so much fun was had in exploring these differences, and within each flight the table was split amongst favourites. For what it is worth mine included the 1998 Barolo Cascina Francia from Conterno (DW), the 2004 Barolo Vigna Elena from Elvio Cogno (TL) and magnum of 2009 Barolo Pie Franco from Cappellano (PC).
What was less contentious was the wine of the night. The antepost favourite IM, romped home with a sublime 1958 Barolo fromn Conterno. Both bottles in top condition, and a remarkable experience from a sixty year old wine.
Burgundy was represented by one flight of Grand Cru whites. The two PYCM wines, 2007 Chevalier (JD), and the 2008 Bienvenue (DM) opened up to give great pleasure and both had their advocats. The most determined performance of the evening came from AK, who opened no fewer than five bottles of 2007 Criots from Fontaine-Gagnard to be able to bring one in perfect condition. A frightening strike rate.
Thank you to everyone for their generosity with bottles, and their engagement with the debate.
For now we have been away from Burgundy for too long, and I look forward to Chablis and Gevrey-Chambertin on the 7th of February.
Stannary Wine Dinner
Wednesday 21st of November 2018
Chef: Mr Francis Percival
Venue: 16 Stannary Street, Kennington, SE11 4AA
Aperitif: 7.00pm Dinner: 7.30pm
Charcuterie from D'Osvaldo Proscuitti
NV Rose Terroirs Chouilly-Bisseuil - A.R.Lenoble
Fonduta with white truffles
2007 Criots Batard Montrachet - Fontaine-Gagnard and
2007 Chevalier-Montrachet - PYCM
2008 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet - PYCM
Tagaliatelle with white truffles
2011 Barolo Monprivato - Guiseppe Mascarello
2009 Barolo Pie Franco – Cappellano
2007 Barolo - Bartolo Mascarello
2005 Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Sandrone
Francia Flight – in between courses
2009 Barolo Cascina Francia - Conterno – magnum
2004 Barolo Cascina Francia - Conterno – magnum
1998 Barolo Cascina Francia – Conterno
Braised beef in Nebbiolo
1998 Barolo Cannubi Boschis -- Sandrone
2004 Vigna Elena Barolo - Elvio Cogno
2001 Barolo Monprivato - Guiseppe Mascarello
1998 Langhe Sori Tildin – Gaja
Cheeses of the Italian Alps
1971 Barolo - Conterno
1958 Barolo – Conterno
Poached quince with pistachio ice cream