Meursault and Chambolle
Last Thursday we hosted the latest Stannary St Wine Co with a focus on two villages, Meursault and Chambolle-Musigny. The evening was semi-blind, or as Jason would say, ‘partially sighted’. The guests knew that all of the wines came from those two villages and minds were therefore focused on vintage and producer.
In the lead up to the event, Luke liaised with our guests to organise the wines into flights and to match them to Francis Percival’s spring menu. The line-up was quite something.
The enormous complexity of Burgundy became once more apparent during the evening. Despite knowing the village, some wines were very difficult to assign to a grower, resulting in some fierce discussions around the table. However we also had multiple wines called out correctly and I proudly say that we had some seriously gifted blind tasters around the table that night.
The only non-Burgundy aspect to the evening came in the shape of a guest appearance by winemaker Gavin Chanin. Gavin’s wines come from cool climate vineyards around Santa Barbara but he was over for his annual pilgrimage to Burgundy. Gavin poured his 2013 Chardonnay ‘Durell Vineyard’, LUTUM, 2007 Pinot Noir ‘Le Bon Climat’, Chanin Wines, 2014 Pinot Noir ‘Los Alamos’, Chanin Wines and 2014 Pinot Noir ‘Bien Nacido’. The wines were showing beautifully and have certainly won some new fans.
The first flight was comprised of Meursaults which were elegantly matched with Egg Linguine with Cauliflower, Hazelnuts and Fines Herbes
2007 Meursault ‘Les Petit Charrons’, Arnaud Ente
2007 Meursault ‘Les Luchets’, Domaine Roulot, served from Magnum
1998 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
2001 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, Pierre Matrot
2010 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon
The 2001 Matrot was the great surprise of this flight and was named as their favourite wine by many tasters due to its precise and intense minerality. Its age was only given away by its colour, but all in all I would say this could go for easily 5 more years. The wine had been decanted 2 hours prior to serving, and it definitely needed some air and time in the decanter.
The 2010 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon was the most powerful wine, and drinking beautifully with buttery and subtle oaky flavours well integrated. There was some bottle variation of the 1998 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon with one bottle being a well matured, very good wine and the other unfortunately slightly oxidised. The 2007 Meursault ‘Les Luchets’, Domaine Roulot was singing and called by its name in the blind tasting.
1995 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveaux, Domaine Taupenot-Merme
1998 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
1990 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Domaine G. Roumier, served from Magnum
1998 Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
While the Taupenot-Merme was called by multiple guests as a Comte Georges de Vogüé, the real favourite of the flight was actually the 1998 Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé of which only one guest was certain of the producer. It was a very complete wine with bright and vibrant fruit flavours and a balanced but intense minerality. The 1990 Roumier Magnum was silky and harmonious with subtle earthiness and well balanced fruit.
Everyone agreed that the flight matching the the Navarin Printanier was definitely the favourite flight of the night.
2002 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Domaine G. Roumier
2005 Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine Jacques Prieur
2002 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier
The 2002 Roumier was called by multiple guests but it was the 2002 Amoureuses which won the vote as the wine of the night. The 2005 Musigny was clearly a very modern style with intense dark cherry and berry fruit and with a hint of oak.
With a selection of strong British Cheeses following wines were served:
2006 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes, Hubert Lignier
2007 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
The 2008 Les Baudes from Lignier out-performed as it was considered by many as of Grand Cru level. But again the Comte Georges de Vogüé was the favourite wine of most guests with the 2006 Barthod being a close second. The wines were singing, and most guests felt in the blind tasting that these were about 10 years older!
For pudding we enjoyed a Gariguette Strawberry Bavarois, a lovely way to finish!
Thanks to everyone involved and for bringing along the wines. I think it truly was a fun evening with a brilliant atmosphere in the dining room. Another night filled with ‘once in a lifetime’ wines and we are already looking forward to next time!