31 October 2022

Stannary Dinner Review – 2000 Red Burgundy and 2014 White Burgundy

After a forced break of some three years, the Stannary dinner returned to their home in Kennington, with Francis Percival once again at the helm.

The theme was put forward by the ever-generous BA who was looking to share his Mugnier Bonnes-Mares and La Grande Rue with this appreciative group.

Many had had joyous experiences with the unheralded 2000 red Burgundy vintage and there was a keenness to see how the vintage was holding up.

The 2014 white vintage remains at the other end of the scale with few having pulled the corks on the great wines.

Stannary Dinner

The evening kicked off with the superb 2013 Henri Giraud Argonne (DE) ; delicious on the night but with a great future ahead of it.

The opening flight was of great class and consistency without an underperforming wine in the line-up. Was the Corton-Charlemagne showing more Corton-Charlemagne (JG) or more PYCM? Time will shift the balance but what a wine. That said, it was the Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte (TC) from Bouchard that took the honours. A beautiful wine with superb balance.

The next two flights of reds were less consistent and perhaps we can conclude that, whilst not over the hill, the peak window for 2000 red Burgundy may have passed. A dark, somewhat un-Chambolle like Beaux Bruns (JD) was lovely but the red highlight of the evening was a wine that has proved to be hugely popular at Stannary dinners in the past; Charmes-Chambertin from Bachelet (DR).

Five more whites followed with a magnum of Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee from Pillot (KS) being another highlight.

Francis’ food was on the same, stunning form that it always is and after so much eating and drinking, one could be forgiven for feeling jaded at this stage of the evening.

Not so on this occasion with two spectacular blind pudding wines to finish. 1990 d’Yquem (AK) is going to be the star of almost all company but that is without coming up against Keller’s 2001 TBA (PJ). Other worldly, and a mere 6.5% to finish the evening.

Thank you to everyone, and I look forward to the next round. It is good to be back.

Sam Clarke

 

The Menu

 

Canapé: crostini of buffalo mozzarella and basil

2013 Argonne – Henri Giraud

 

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Sea bass with fennel and saffron cream

2014 Corton-Charlemagne – PYCM
2014 Chevalier-Montrachet – Bouchard
2014 – Batard Montrachet Faiveley
2014 Chablis Grand Cru Clos – Dauvissat – magnum

 

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Halibut with chicken broth, seaweed, and shiitake

2000 Vosne-Romanee 1er Suchots – JM Millot
2000 La Grande Rue – Domaine Lamarche
2000 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos-St-Jacques – Fourrier
2000 – Charmes-Chambertin – Bachelet

 

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Duck with borlotti beans, corn, and squash

2000 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Feusselottes – Mugneret-Gibourg
2000 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Beaux Bruns – Barthod
2000 Bonnes-Mares – Mugnier

 

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Cheese: Brightwell Ash, Brefu Bach, St Cera

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanee – Paul Pillot – Magnum
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Ruchottes – Ramonet – Paul Pillot
2014 Puligny-Montrachet Tremblots Hautes Densite – Lamy
2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Mouchere – Henri Boillot
2014 Meursault Perriéres – Vincent Dancer

 

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Yoghurt pannacotta with quince

Blind Wine. No. 1 • 1990 Chateau d’Yquem
Blind Wine No. 2 • 2001 Riesling – Keller