This is the first year that we are directly working with Heymann-Löwenstein, one of the most exciting producers in the Mosel.
Everything about this estate expresses the enigma that is Reinhard Löwenstein. Like most famous producers, he comes from a family that has been growing grapes since the 16th century, yet the estate is young and was only founded by Reinhard in 1980. Like all the greatest wines in the Mosel, the grapes are hand-harvested, have extended lees contact, are slowly fermented with natural yeasts and vinified in old fuder. The final wines capture the thrilling energy only found in the very best Rieslings. Yet Reinhard breaks with the traditional styles of the Mosel, producing mainly dry, rather than off-dry, Riesling (aside from a tiny amount of luscious botrytis sweet wines). Even his bottles carry through this enigma; they are beautifully elegant in a traditional flute bottle, yes, but with a modern label that somehow feels classical. As one may expect from such a complex personality, Reinhard is considered a pioneer of the dry style Rieslings in Mosel and was a champion for the introduction of the French-inspired wine classification; Erste Lage and Grosses Gewächs.
It is hard not to be enthralled by this domaine and we are thrilled to represent them. The Rieslings are powerful, fully textured with an almost baroque-like expression. Usually, they are dry, though not necessarily bone-dry, they are perhaps more reminiscent of a Rheingau than a traditional Mosel, yet with the finesse of Mosel. Reinhard, together with his daughter Sarah, is fixated on the concept of soil and this is expressed in the names of the wines, from the entry-level “Schieferterrassen” (slate terraces) to the special crus of the Uhlen, which he subdivided by soil (Roth Lay = Iron-bearing red slate and Laubach = calcareous grey slate).
2017 Schieferterrassen Riesling Heymann-Löwenstein VDP £97 per case of 6 bottles in bond
“Apple, lime and honeydew melon are laced with fennel and mint on the nose, and the lusciously juicy, silken palate displays a lovely combination of cooling and nippy herbal notes, the latter represented by coriander seed and cress. At 12.5% alcohol, this is a relatively full as well as lush Riesling, but its stimulating and refreshing finish manages to evince a welcome hint of buoyancy. 90/100 points” David Schildknecht, Vinous Media.
2017 Rottgen GG Riesling Heymann-Löwenstein VDP £165 per case of 6 bottles in bond
“White peach, strawberry, grapefruit and lime are coolingly laced with fennel and mint on a fetching nose and a luscious, silken, palpably lees-enriched palate. The generously juicy finish is surprisingly and delightfully buoyant for a wine labelled at 12.5% alcohol. 92/100 points.” David Schildknecht, Vinous Media
2017 Uhlen Laubach Riesling Heymann-Löwenstein VDP £210 per case of 6 bottles in bond
“White peach and iris on the nose anticipate the tangy, pit-tinged fruit and the musky inner-mouth floral perfume that characterize a silken, palpably dense, crushed-stone-suffused midpalate. This finishes with impressive persistence and a mouthwatering hint of salt, albeit – for now, anyway – not quite the multifaceted or intriguing length of the corresponding Blaufüsser Lay.
92/100 points.” David Schildknecht, Vinous Media.
2017 Uhlen Roth Lay Heymann-Löwenstein VDP £285 per case of 6 bottles in bond
“Last tasted from cask right after assemblage – and, as usual, not due for bottling until spring 2018 – this leads with powerful scents and luscious palate presence of ripe white peach and apricot, hauntingly garlanded in headily perfumed buddleia. The textural counterpoint engendered by creaminess playing against piquancy of fruit pit, a prickle of peach fuzz and underlying stoniness is captivating. Site-typical tarragon and anise emerge on a finish that displays a remarkable sense of lift for a wine of around 13% alcohol; a remarkable degree of refreshment, animation and transparency to crystalline stony nuances for a wine this rich; and a salinity that set my salivary glands palpitating. 93-94/100″ David Schildknecht, Vinous Media
2018 Kirchberg Riesling Heymann-Löwenstein VDP £138 per case of 6 bottles in bond
Not yet reviewed by Vinous. The slate here is a reddish-brown and scattered quartz that you can see as glitters in the stone. The wines here are considered more herbal with a salty minerality.