It is without doubt that Burgundy forms the heart of the Stannary portfolio. All the members of our team were drawn to Stannary because of its Burgundy portfolio and we all passionately love learning about Burgundy. We firmly believe that our strength as a company lies in identifying some of the most exciting and upcoming producers in the area. Jason, our Burgundy buyer, is married into a Burgundian winemaking family and spends a large part of the year there. As a team we trust our own palates and Jason, but it was still incredibly exciting to see Master of Wine Jeannie Cho Lee MW mention many of our growers in her recent Decanter article Burgundy: Meet 10 Exceptional Winemaking Talents.
The article is part of the research Jeannie Cho Lee is doing for her book “The 100 Burgundy: exceptional wines to build a dream cellar” yet the ten personalities that she chose for the Decanter article are in her view ‘producing the most exciting wines at the highest calibre and quality for their respective regions. These producers are incredibly talented, dedicated and driven to continually improve their wines’. Some ‘are already on a rising trajectory, while Pierre Duroché and Charles Lachaux are just starting. What they have in common is that they have not yet reached their peak’. We are really proud to work with six of the growers in the article. The full article can be found HERE, but I have put some of Jeannie Cho Lee’s comments on each of the producers below:
Grégory Gouges – Domaine Henri Gouges
This historic property is now managed by Grégory Gouges, the fourth generation of his family, who has refined the wines without taking away either the vineyard’s character or its ageing potential. Gouges makes a beautiful range of premier cru Nuits-St-Georges reds that in recent years are approachable earlier and have suppler textures. Tannin management is more sophisticated now and, combined with warmer vintages and more precise winemaking, the wines are ample, velvety and can be quite fruity.
Pierre Duroché – Domaine Duroché
Emerging as a vigneron to follow, Pierre Duroché is reserved and humble – his silky wines from Gevrey-Chambertin are vastly different from those made by his father and grandfather….Since 2014, there is a wonderful purity and authenticity to Pierre’s wines that allows the vineyards to express themselves more precisely. There have been hundreds of small, minor refinements such as gentle extraction and minimal new oak that have turned good wines into great wines. Like many in his generation aged in their 30s and 40s, Pierre is nonchalant about the use of whole clusters: ‘I use it when I need it,’ he says and shrugs his shoulders. Pierre’s open-mindedness and a desire to make the best-quality wine possible, with purity and precision, make him one of Burgundy’s most exciting vignerons to watch.
Jean-Marc Pillot – Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
The past decade has seen some amazing Chassagne-Montrachet producers energise this appellation, which has long lived in the shadows of Puligny-Montrachet. Although a dozen Chassagne producers could easily have been included in my book, due to space constraints I chose Jean-Marc Pillot. Jean-Marc has been at the forefront of the quality movement in the region since 1991, when he took over the domaine from his father Jean… Over the past 15 years, Jean-Marc moved away from new oak to capture more mineral notes and retain as much freshness as possible. These refinements since the early 2000s are now in bottle and the results are striking. The reds are pure, balanced and elegant, while the whites are taut and display great precision and detail.
Cyprien Arlaud – Domaine Arlaud
Although this estate at Morey-St-Denis dates back to 1942, the wines were under the radar until the younger generation fully took over in 2013. Changes were happening even before then, with the estate starting to farm organically in 2004, then becoming certified biodynamic in 2014….Cyprien says: ‘I believe quality really improved when we started biodynamics. With extreme weather conditions, the vines are able to cope better because of biodynamics.’…In the late 1990s, the wines were chunkier and richer. One only needs to taste a vertical of any of their wines to note that, starting with 2010, the wines reveal greater finesse and refinement in recent years. Vintages such as 2015 and 2016 show the intensity, stature and energy that this vineyard can offer, and prices for their premiers crus are still fairly reasonable.
Charles van Canneyt – Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat
Very soon after Charles Van Canneyt arrived at his grandfather’s Vougeot-based domaine in 2008, eyebrows were raised, as this sleepy estate suddenly piqued the interest of importers and wine writers. The wines presented by Van Canneyt have greater finesse, more definition and intensity than in the past. He insists that he has only made minor adjustments in the vineyard and winery: ‘We are decreasing yields, carrying out more careful sorting and using a small percentage of whole clusters for certain wines in vintages that can support it.’ These and a hundred other small refinements have elevated this domaine and Van Canneyt to rising-star status. In just 10 years, Van Canneyt has turned this domaine around, and prices have risen in tandem with the higher quality. The estate farms just 10ha, and increasing demand has led him to create his eponymously named négociant range.
Mathilde Grivot – Domaine Jean Grivot
This is a historic domaine that has been revitalised since 2017 when Etienne and Marielle’s young daughter Mathilde took over from her father, becoming the fourth generation in the family to manage the 15ha estate. Tasting at Jean Grivot is a study on the terroirs of Vosne-Romanée….Mathilde is extremely articulate, thoughtful and charming. She is clear about where she wants to take the domaine: ‘We are looking for refined tannins and less new oak.’ The result is greater precision and clarity of flavours in recent vintages. The most noticeable difference between the wines of Mathilde and her father Etienne is in the texture of the tannins – Mathilde’s wines, starting with the 2017 vintage, have a silkier texture and fine-grained tannins. All of her wines in 2018 are simply gorgeous.
For those that are interested in exploring Burgundy during lockdown, we have put together mixed cases of each of these growers. All the below cases include all taxes and free delivery in mainland UK.
Domaine Gouges 2014 Vintage Collector’s case @ £320 per 6 bottle Case
Includes 2 bottles each of:
- 2014 Clos de Porrets-Saint-Georges
- 2014 Les Pruliers
- 2014 Vaucrains
Pierre Duroché mixed 6 bottle case @ £180 per 6 bottle Case
Includes 3 bottles each of:
- 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin
- 2017 Bourgogne Blanc `Les Grands Champs`
Jean Marc Pillot Mixed 6 bottle case @ £278 per 6 bottle Case
Contains one bottle each of:
- 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Macherelle
- 2017 Montagny 1er Cru Les Gouresses Blanc
- 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie
- 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-Marc Pillot
- 2016 Santenay Les Champs Claude
- 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet PC Clos St Jean Rouge
Domaine Arlaud Père & Fils Mixed 6 bottle case @ £306 per 6 bottle Case
Contains 2 bottles each of:
- 2016 Morey-St-Denis
- 2014 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Les Ruchots
- 2015 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes
Charles Van Canneyt Mixed Case @ £380 per 6 bottle Mixed Case
Contains 2 bottles each of:
- 2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
- 2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbaudes
- 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys